Think men’s tuxedos all look the same? You’re not alone. With over 90% of tuxedos being black, it’s easy for people to miss the subtle differences between them, whether it be the silhouette, fit, fabrication or finishing details. Accessories, such as a cummerbund, suspenders, bow tie, vest and pocket square, can greatly impact whether one tuxedo stands out from others around it.
If you looking to purchase a tuxedo here in the Netherlands, to wear at a charity function, wedding, prom or other event, consider the following…
WHAT TIME OF THE DAY IS THE EVENT TAKING PLACE?
The ‘Morning Suit’ is a formal look common in Britain and certain Commonwealth countries, like Australia. It is worn for formal occasions taking place prior to 6 pm and typically consists of 3 key elements: 1) waistcoat/vest (solid or patterned), 2) topcoat with tails, and 3) trousers/pants (solid or striped). The neck wear commonly used to accessorize the outfit is called a ‘dress ascot’ or ‘dress cravat’, which looks like a bulky necktie.
An ‘Evening Suit’ on the other hand, is worn for formal events taking place after 6 pm. The waistcoat is gone and both the topcoat and trousers are black. A white formal shirt with wingtip collar is accessorized with a bow tie. The topcoat tails should hit just above the back of the knee (this is true for both a morning suit and evening suit).
Confusion can result when the terms tuxedo and smoking jacket are used, since they can refer to two different things depending on where you are from. In the United States (and Canada), the term ‘tuxedo’ refers to a formal suit commonly worn with a bow tie, while ‘smoking jacket’ traditionally refers to an over jacket worn in the home and is characterized by material interest such as velvet, brocade, tapestry or velour; it is closed with a fabric belt, in much the same way as a bathrobe.
BUT…in other countries, such as France, Italy and the Netherlands, the term smoking jacket actually refers to a traditional tuxedo jacket.
In the photo above, the jacket on the left, from Regency New York, is what Americans would describe as a ‘smoking jacket’ while the one on the right would be a ‘tuxedo jacket’. In countries such as Italy, France and the Netherlands, they refer to the jacket on the right as a ‘smoking jacket’.
It is also good to know that in French, the word ‘costume’ and in Dutch, the word ‘kostum’, refer to formal wear.
The following is a list of tuxedo styling details which can vary from one tuxedo to another. Focus on these variations to determine your personal preference and what will look best with your body shape…
- FABRICATION: polyester, poly-viscose, wool-poly blend, 100% wool
- COLOR: black, grey, navy, white
- LAPEL: notched, shawl and peak
- JACKET CLOSURE: one or two buttons most common
- SLEEVE CUFF: two, three or four buttons
- OUTER JACKET POCKETS: chest pocket, side pockets (one, two, flap, non-flap)
- VENTS: single (center), double (side)
- FIT: regular, athletic, slim, tall
- TROUSERS: striped, non-striped, flat front, pleated, fully lined, partially lined, unlined
Check out the tuxedo and formal wear offering at the following retailers, located in or delivering to the Netherlands…
|LOUIS COPELAND||HAWES & CURTIS||STYLEBOP||EL CORTE INGLES||SAKS OFF 5TH||ITALIST||AMAZON DE|
Contemporary formal shoes for men can diverge a bit from the looks of special occasion footwear most often associated with tuxedos and dinner suits. Whether you prefer a sleeker modern silhouette or one which is more traditional, stick with the color black. Standout (or not) by choosing your preferred upper material… classic leather, high-shine patent, rich suede, velvet, snake, croco or other texture.
You can find formal, special occasion, derby and tuxedo shoes at these retailers:
|NELSON SCHOENEN||EL CORTE INGLES||SPARTOO||ITALIST||STYLEBOP||SOLE TRADER||SAKS OFF 5TH|